Lerici
A year ago the enchanting coastal town of Lerici Italy completely captured our hearts. Last year we found a beautiful villa perched above the Callita Cove. Though it was only available for six days, we decided to plan our entire European adventure around those precious days. The experience was so unforgettable that we couldn't resist returning this year and extending our stay to two glorious weeks. To our delight, Lerici was even more magical the second time around.
Below are just a few of my favorite spots. We have found that touristy spots don't really exist in this area. The people who live and work in town go to all the same spots as the tourists go to. So just wander around, explore. Lerici is a place where every street, cove, and hilltop has something beautiful to offer. Don't be afraid to get lost; some of our most memorable moments came from spontaneous discoveries
EAT
1918
This is our go to dinner spot! It is located in the main square at the bottom of the steps from our house. The menu is all seafood. They have a beautiful covered patio, the decor is very simple and elegant.
Opens at 7:30
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1, 19032 Lerici SP
www.ristorante1918lerici.com
Ristorante Ciccilo Mare
Sad it took us 2 trips to find this gem. This was where we went for Charlottes special birthday dinner. It is tucked away under the castle and the only way to get to it (besides by boat) is through a tunnel under the castle. Then you come out to this big cove with a restaurant tucked into the rocks. It is a no frills restaurant all outside but the views and setting couldn't be more gorgeous. We came for dinner, but also a great location for lunch or drinks. It is a great place to swim, there is a public beach and beach chairs that can be rented here too.
Calata Giuseppe Mazzini, Snc, 19032 Lerici SP
www.ciccilloamare.it
1918 Mare - Beach Restaurant
This is the daytime/ lunch version of the main 1918 restaurant that we love so much. It is located right in the middle of the main stretch of beach in Lerici. It is a very cute all outside structure that is right on the water. Come here for just a coffee and pastry or for lunch. We love it here.
Via S. Biaggini 5, 19032, Lerici Italy
Website
Drink & Cappuccinos
Bar Il Pontile
I usually end up here at least once a day. It is no frills, the view can't be beat. You sit outside right on the pier in the marina. A cappucino and fresh squeezed orange juice is 5 euros.
Enoteca F Baroni
We first came here after church because everyone from church was here (including the priest). Great spot for a cappuccino and a quiche (torta). Don't sit down at a table. You need to ask and then they will seat you. They have a small cute grocery and wine shop next door.
Via Cavour, 18, 19032 Lerici SP
Bar Doria
This hotel bar is about half way down the hill into Lerici. It has a beautiful balcony. The restaurant and bar are owned by the same group as 1918. A great place for a quiet drink and aperitivo.
Via Carpanini, 9, 19032 Lerici SP
Frutti Di Mare
There are 3 tiny bars towards the end of the pier. All are fabulous. They are old shipping containers for the bar and all seating is outside. The first one Frutti Di Mare is an oyster bar, hands down the best oysters I have had. Just served with lemon and shucked as you order them. The owner is one of the 2 singers at church. The middle one is always packed. the bar people sit on the stairs and anyplace possible. There is usually live music. Good time to go any
SHOP
Most shops close in this area from 1:00 to 3:30
MP Lerici
This is a higher end shop, all made in Italy. The displays look a bit older, but if you take the time there are some gems.
P.zza C Battisti,8 Lerici
Vale Raku
Such a cute find. The artist is the shop keeper and her studio is in the shop. She makes a lot of jewelry (I bought a ring and earrings for Erica)
Via Cavour, 28 19032 LERICI - SP
www.valeraku.it
Saturday Market
We love the Saturday market along the beach boardwalk in Lerici. It goes until about 1:00. There are so many gems, ceramics, cashmere, linen.
To Do
There are a lot of signs up around the town for events. There was a beautiful opera concert in the town square.
Yoga by the Sea
Hard to beat this view for a yoga class, located at the end of the boardwalk in Lerici at the boat club. It is a lovely Hatha (very chill class). All in Italian. You will need to whats app Valentia before to sign up and she will bring a yoga mat for you. Look for signs and flyers in town to get more information about the class.
39 339 2934716 - Valentina
Ciccillo Mare Beach Club
We were on our way to Tellaro but the bus never came, so we headed to Ciccilo. We rented beach chairs and umbrellas and had the best time. The restaurant is right above the beach club so it is easy and fun to get snacks. Before you find a chair you need to pay for it and the lifeguard will show you a spot. Total family run operation.
www.ciccilloamare.it
Stabilimento Balneare Colombo srl
This is one of the bigger beach clubs. It is closer to Santerenzo, but very walkable. The beach is all little pebbles so bring flipflops. Once in the water the beach is beautiful and sandy. There are 2 floating trampolines that the kids absolutely loved. If you are without kids, I recommend renting chairs on the pier. Call ahead of time, because a lot of the chairs are reserved for the season. They have a great casual snack bar for lunch. The do have a fancier restaurant, which we didn't try.
Via S. Biaggini, 2, 19032 Lerici SP, Italy
Day Trips
Travel by Ferry
The ferry pick up and drop off is right in the Golfo Dei Poeti (the square at the bottom of our hill). It is super easy and an excellent way to see the towns around here and of course fun to be on the water. The boat leaves pretty much every hour and your ticket is for the whole day. You can make as many stops as you want, the ticket is for the day and is 41 euros.
www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it
Porto Venere
This is the closest town by ferry to Lerici. It and it is the only town we went to by ferry last year we then took a boat taxi to an island for lunch (see below). This trip we went to a few of the Cinque Terre towns and this is our favorite. It is not considered one of the 5 towns of Cinque Terre, so it is less visited. Although don't be fooled it is still busy.
The church of S. Pietro (6th century) is perched up high on the cliffs. When passing by boat (continuing on the Cinque Terre the boat makes a 90 degree turn.
Locanda Lorena
Great spot for lunch. Make a reservation and a water taxi picks you up from Porto Venere. This was the perfect lunch destination for our first visit here. It is fun to have something to keep you accountable. When the ferry dropped us off we knew we had to be back at the docks at a certain time for our water taxi to pick us up. Plan to have along lunch here.
Via Cavour, 4, 19025 Porto Venere SP
0187 792370
www.locandalorena.com
Torre Di Venere
This is a beautiful experience. The restaurant is all outside and tucked into the walls of the castle overlooking the canal. We loved everything about the meal, the staff was lovely, the people watching fabulous (all very well dressed Italian families), the setting was unbeatable and the food as great. This would be afabulous place to go for a drink. With just 2 people you can sit above the restaurant and the view there is incredible. We didn't have a reservation, but I would recommend one.
19025 Porto Venere, Province of La Spezia
info@torredivenere.com
www.torredivenere.com
Pisa
This is a great day trip. We took the bus to Sarzana and then it was an easy 1 hour train to Pisa. We were planning to take a taxi to the Leaning Tower, but the taxi line was very long and no taxis were coming so we took a bus. It is not far (bus line +1), you can scan your credit card when you get on the bus for a ticket. There is a good cafe right where the bus drops you called Po'stò. I was so impressed by the tower and Piazza Del Duomo. The photos of the tower and surrounding areas do not do it justice. It is also way more leaning then you expect it to be. We did not go up the tower or into the cathedral or baptismal, you should purchase tickets before hand, they are timed tickets. We then walked through the botanical gardens and then back through the town to the train station. It is an easy walk about 30 minutes. The river is very pretty looks like a mini Florence. The city if very clean, we were surprised on the walk back we thought we would find more cute cafes along the street but it was pretty quiet.
Fiascherino
This really doesn't have to be a day trip, because it is less then a 10 minute bus ride, but it is so cute I think you will want to stay for a day. We took the Tellaro (the bus schedule is more reliable on weekdays) bus over and you get off one stop before Tellaro and then walk down the stairs. You can rent beach chairs, but there are not many and were all booked. We found a nice spot on the beach, you can walk up to the snack bar at the hotel for cappucinos. The hotel has a beautiful restaurant looking over the next cove over. We celebrated Erica's birthday lunch here. Hands down it was the best pesto I have had the whole trip. The beach below the restaurant is also really pretty.
Locanda Il Senatore - Beautiful Restaurant
www.locandailsenatore.it
Tellaro
We love Tellaro, just a 10 minute bus ride from our house. It is the last stop on this section of the coast. It is a tiny picturesque town with some cute restaurants and a fun area to get into the water. Because it is a bit harder to get to and not considered Cinq Terre it does not get tourists like the other towns do.
